James and I both agree – the journey is the reward. We love being under way making way with the sails full and our feet dangling off the back of the swimming platform. This is how we spent most of the day yesterday, and we were deliriously happy. Just before sunset we spotted a lovely town with a marina and decided to anchor there for the night. We didn’t fully discover until the next morning just how charming Primosten really is. We docked our dinghy at a cute little restaurant with a patio dining room hanging over the water. We … Continue reading Primosten

1 bottle of Croatian (or not) dry Rose One orange, sliced into 8ths and squeezed One peach sliced into 8ths, swueezed One half apple sliced (cuz it’s pithy.. we’re not gonna eat it.. so why not) Pour all fruit into a pitcher. Squeeze the juice. Add the rose. Chill. Serve over ice. If sailing fill a Yeti with ice, Pour in with some fruit and hold on. Continue reading And Now For the Sangria

Wow this morning started with a Bang. Literally. We had anchored in a tiny cove on a mooring ball to weather the storm overnight. It wasn’t that bad. We set out at 6:30am, knowing we may encounter weather. Oh my. Watch the video below. Sorry it’s upside down : ( We sailed North toward the island of Dugi Otok, but an hour in the weather took a turn and the tiny ship was tossed. With gusts of 35 knts and driving rain we decided to turn around and seek refuge in a small cove we had passed. We anchored there … Continue reading Squalls, Sea Cliffs and … Sangria

Yesterday was a long sailing day. We covered 60 miles in about 11 hours. There was almost no wind and the water was like glass. Our destination, the partially inhabited island of Zirje in the Sibenik Archipelago. On our way we stopped at the tiny privately owned island of Svetac with its spectacular rocky coastline and numerous caves. Svetac is owned by a family who has lived on the island for 250 years. From the cove you can see their homes, vineyard, orchards and gardens that sit up on the hill. They make wine, olive oil and grow capers. There … Continue reading Caves, Coves and Crossings

What could be more refreshing when you are underway making way between islands than a fresh watermelon cocktail? The Island Hopper 2 oz watermelon juice 4 oz sparkling lemon mineral water 2 oz vodka Ice Lime wedge Continue reading Cocktail of the Day: The Island Hopper

We left our secluded cove on Hvar and hopped onto the superyacht superhighway leading to the summer resort that is the main town of Hvar. The coastline is dotted with luxury resorts and a beautiful stone walking path that runs for miles along the edge of the water. Up on the hill above the town is a 13th century high walled hilltop fortress. There are several churches right on the water. From Hvar we set sail for the island of Vis with ideal winds and according to the captain an a perfect tack for what was the best sailing so … Continue reading C’est la Vis

James and I arrived in Split Croatia yesterday afternoon. We took a taxi to the harbor and swam through the masses of charter boaters on the docks to get the boat ready to go. We love the Doria. She’s a brand new 2019 35 foot Jenneau sailboat. We headed into town for dinner, grabbed some ice and provisions, and set out at 10pm in the dark for a secluded cove about 25 miles out that Captain James had his eye on. What a cove it is! We arrived around 2:00 am and anchored in the dark and awoke to this. … Continue reading Good Morning Hvar

For our last evening at Lee and Ciro’s beautiful home, Puglia delivered a spectacular sunset that we enjoyed from atop their roof. James and I are forever grateful for the love, generosity and hospitality of Lee, Ciro, Luca and Ruby. Grazie amici. Continue reading The Last Sunset in Puglia

Lee had been hinting at a big surprise and Polignano was it. Wow. Perched atop limestone cliffs, the old town is a maze of cobblestone streets filled with shops, restaurants, inns and spectacular views of the turquoise blue Adriatic sea. You may know of Polignano because of its famously romantic restaurant in a cave – gratta – Gratta Palazzese. Lee and Ciro love this town and it’s gorgeous cove below the cliffs where she has been swimming with her son for a dozen years. In one section of town, Vicolo della Poesia, poetry is written on staircases, walls and doorways. … Continue reading Polignano a Mare

James and Kate were officially styled to become Giacomo and Katarina Bianco today in the old city of Martina Franca. James went to a tiny barber shop with Ciro to get a quintessentially Italian haircut. We both shopped in the lovely boutiques where i finally found my perfect white Italian sundress. After an impromptu dance in the courtyard of a music school we had an amazing lunch at Nausikaa. Continue reading The Italian Makeover

We visited the quaint fishing village of Savelletri for dinner at La Taverna di Umberto, another restaurant Lee and Ciro have been visiting for more than a dozen years. Ciro ordered us a mix of crudo and cotto – raw and cooked – antipasto dishes. When I think of antipasto I think appetizers – a few small dishes as precursors to the main course. But here in Puglia the antipasto keeps coming and coming. Shrimp, mussels, clams, anchovies, sardines, octopus, sea urchin and calamari plus mozzarella and creamy stracciatella cheese. When it’s time for the main out comes the platter … Continue reading Fish, Fish and More Fish

Last night we visited the impossibly adorable town of Alberobello known for its unusual districts of trulli, the white-washed conical-roofed houses of the area. A trullo is a traditional and simple structure seen throughout this part of Puglia. Alberobello was once a town of trulli only. Trulli were built to be dismantled rapidly to avoid paying taxes, as in feudal times taxes were levied on inhabited settlements. Trulli are whitewashed and their roofs are often decorated with symbols of religious or superstitious significance. The spire decoration was something of a status symbol: it showed the builders’ skill and thus wealth of the owners. We had … Continue reading We Trulli Love Puglia