James has been telling me about his love of Mammoth for years, and having only been there in winter I didn’t get it. Now I do. Mountains. Lakes. Rivers. Waterfalls. Bike trails. Craft coffee. Gourmet food. So much beauty.

A few weeks ago we decided to road trip in our 2003 Sprinter van and go east through Mammoth on our way down to San Clemente to James’ fathers memorial service. Day one took us from home to Yosemite to camp for the night. I had a conference call at 6:30pm and was expecting cell service at the park entrance. But when we arrived we learned that cell coverage ended a few miles back. We had planned to stay high and head East to Toulumne Meadows to camp. But when we learned the only reliable cell service was in the valley we drove down to the valley in a spectacular moment of serendipity.

We arrived as the lovely low angle evening light shone across the valley, and it was spectacular. The valley walls were ablaze with golden light. The valley roads, usually stop and go, were clear. It was so lovely. As I jumped on my call James took the dogs though the valley to enjoy the last of the evening light, which on this evening cast its final glow to illuminate Half Dome. It was magical.

On our way out we drove past El Capitan where we could now see dozens of climbers we had not seen in the daylight as their firefly lights shone from their hammock camps on the side of the sheer granite walls. We headed back up out of the valley and East to Toulumne Meadows where we found a campsite for the night.

Early the next morning we set off for Mammoth and took the back way in, stopping at June Lake for a paddle and to let the dogs romp in the lake.

Then we headed into the village for a stop at our favorite craft coffee brewer, Black Velvet Coffee Roasters. Then up to Twin Lakes to find a campsite before setting off on a mountain bike ride.

It was perfect mountain biking weather: High 60s, sunny, brilliant blue sky and a slight breeze. We camped that night at the upper Twin Lakes campground.

The next day we drove up to Mary Lake and found the perfect base camp for our day of adventure. We took the dogs out on the lake for a paddle before setting off for more mountain biking ride on another incredible fall mountain day.

The next day I worked while James shredded some more trails. With a lovely view of Twin Lakes the dogs and I set up camp for the morning in my Sprinter office. In an unexpected moment I spotted a bear swimming across the lake. He climbed out on the opposite shore to graze on berries. So cool.

The memorial services were beautiful, and James and his brother and sister had an afternoon BBQ at the neighborhood beach club in San Clemente near their family home. Once again the weather was lovely, and the kids – his nephews and nieces – had a blast in the water.

We headed back through Mammoth on our way home to discover that it had snowed over the weekend. The temp was 29 degrees when we woke up on our last morning, and James attempted a mountain bike ride only to abort within minutes as his fingers froze so he could not grip the brakes.

After a final stop at Black Velvet we headed back home, recounting our many adventures on the mountain and agreeing that Mammoth is our favorite among all the amazing parks and forests in the state.